I am an African-American woman that decided to transition from chemically relaxed hair to natural hair. This has been quite a journey! I had to really learn my hair and how to maintain it all over again. Having had relaxed hair for so long, I decided to research some of the common ingredients found in hair products. This is very helpful when I purchase hair care–now I know what I am buying. This list does not include everything, of course, but these products are very common.
1. Tocopherol (vitamin E)-used as an antioxidant in hair-grooming aids, derived from vegetable oils
Alcohols
Alcohol is an organic compound manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar, and other carbs that is frequently used in a variety of cosmetic products for both the hair and skin. Although typically alcohol is considered harmful for the hair, there are some forms of alcohol called mild fatty alcohols that are good for the hair and are used to soften.
2. Cetearyl alcohol-derived naturally, it is often found in hair conditioners; it provides creamy consistency and makes it easier to distribute the product throughout the hair; lubricates the hair and makes it easier to comb
3. Cetyl alcohol-a fatty alcohol derived from coconut and palm oils; this alcohol works as an emollient (makes hair and skin softer)
4. Stearyl alcohol (stenol)-a fatty alcohol; a white solid that is insoluable in water; often used in conditioners and shampoos and acts as an emollient; often used as a substitute for cetyl alcohol to obtain a firmer product at ordinary temperatures and as an antifoam ingredient and lubricant in hair rinses
5. Lauryl alcohol-produced from coconut oil and it’s used to make detergents because of its lathering ability
*Please note:Alcohols to be concerned about in the hair and skin-care products that can cause adverse reactions are ethanol, denatured alcohol, ethyl alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl, and SD alcohol.
6. E.F.A.s (essential fatty acids)-hydrogenated plant oils like aloe vera, coconut oil, or jojoba oil that act as moisturizers and lubricators; can make very dry porous hair soft and pliable; the closest thing to natural scalp oil to use on hair
7. Sodium chloride-table salt and is typically used as an astrigent and an antiseptic
8. Pathenol-known as depanthenol or the vitamin B complex formula is found in a variety of haircare products
9. Isobutane-a form of natural gas widely used as a propellant in hairspray and hair mousse
Ingredients to Avoid in Hair Products
10. Isopropyl alcohol-a solvent and a denaturant (poisonous substance that changes another substance natural qualities); found in hair color rinses, body moisturizers, fragrances, and many other cosmetics; a petroleum-derived substance used in anti-freeze and a sovent in shellac; it dries hair and causes breakage (especially ethnic and curly hair); may cause adverse reactions in those who are allergic
11. Mineral oil/Petrolatum-is a derivative of crude oil (petroleum) that is used industrally as a grease component; used as a moisturizer in beauty products, it actually coats the hair and prevents moisture from getting into the hair shaft; prevents the release of toxins and waste in hair and skin; alters the skin respiration/transpiration by keeping oxygen out
12. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)/Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)-used in shampoos to break down oil; used as detergents and surfactants, these closely related compounds are found in car wash soaps, engine degreasers, and garage floor cleaners; yet both are used more widely as one the major ingredients in many beauty products (toothpaste, conditioner) and about 90% of all shampoos and products that foam; it’s used because it is cheap and a small amount generates a lot of foam, and when salt is added it gives the illusion of being thick and concentrated; it strips hair of moisture (which is crucial with ethnic hair) and has the potential to cause skin and scalp irritation
13. Propylene glycol (PG)-found in many products such as make-up, lotion, mouthwash, and deodorant, it is an active component in anti-freeze (yes, antifreeze); breaks down protein and cellular structure (protein is needed for hair to thrive); workers actually wear protective gear when handling these chemicals due to the chemical side effects and toxicity
14. Diethanolamine (DEA), Momoethnanolamine (MEA)- usually listed as an ingredient containing a neutralizing compound like Cocamide DEA or Lauramide DEA; repeated skin applications of DEA-based detergents are known to form cancer causing nitrates
